Sunday, February 24, 2008

Sarajevo


Zlata introduced me to Sarajevo. In 5th grade my teacher had recommended the book Zlata's Diary and I read what life was like for an 11 year old girl, one who could have been my own classmate, living through a war. As I read the book to its end I'm not sure if I was more upset about her own personal accounts and experiences or the fact that Zlata's diary pages were still being written. The war in Bosnia would not end for two more years.

As I walk the streets of Sarajevo its a sobering reality. The streets are bustling with people, with noise, with vendors, with smells of local dishes, with life. There is the hopeful reconstruction of regrowth and new growth as buildings stand out with fresh new coats of paint next to those that stand as witness to the recent turmoil that emptied the streets as the sound of automatic weapons replaced the cafe' chatter.

From what I have learned, there are two things that saved many of the Bosnian people. The local brewery for its fresh source of spring water once gas, electricity and water had been cut off to the city and the Tunnel. The Tunnel, which ran underneath the airport, connecting sieged Sarajevo with neutral ground, allowed for the passage of humanitarian aid to come into the city. Today the family who owns the house has opened it as a museum.

About 20 meters of tunnel remains. Before entering I was shown a bag that was commonly worn by those who would have passed through carry supplies and aid. I think it weighed about 50 pounds. I was told that most often people would carry one on their front and one on their backs. That alone would be quite the task, let alone the fact that anyone taller than myself would most certainly not be able to stand up straight.

There's been plenty of time for play too while I've been here. Sarajevo hosted the '84 Winter Olympic Games, so we took a morning to hit the slopes. The weather has been warm, which has been great, but it didn't make for the greatest of ski conditions. I can still stay that I got some skiing in this season though!

I have truly enjoyed just walking the old town. It's quite different from the half-timbered houses of medieval Germany, but full of character with the styles of Viennese architecture and Turkish Markets. There is certainly rebuilding left to be done, but the lively atmosphere in town brings great hope for this city.

Following a morning of skiing, I enjoyed a night at the Opera. As a charity event for a local Soprano singer with breast cancer the Sarajevo Philharmonic Orchestra, conductors, and soloist donated their time and talents to perform well known opera pieces. It was hosted in the largest venue Sarajevo could find, the Grand Hall in the Parliament building, selling out all 650 seats.

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